Sunday, June 17, 2018

Kalahari Anib Lodge to Canyon Lodge

After only one night at Kalahari Anib Lodge we have another early start as we have a 6 hour journey south to Fish River Canyon where we will stay 2 nights.  Apparently this tour is one of the very few that go that far south.

Before leaving the Lodge we did a short walk to hear about some of the geology of Namibia (it is apparently a geologists’ dream destination as so much has happened and is evident to this day).  We noticed some tracks in the soil and allegedly they were pangolin – probably the closest we’ll ever get to one of these lovely creatures.


Again the road was long and straight with little rest areas every few kms – we stopped at one with a particularly good view of Mt Brukkaros.  



En route we stopped in the town of Keetmanshoop at a local Spar and bought sandwiches for lunch.

Our itinerary said we would then be visiting the Giants’ Playground and Quiver Tree Forest but in actual fact we stopped at Garas Park Rest Camp which combines the two and also has the most wacky object d’art.






 



Soon after we got out of the bus we couldn't fail to notice these huge bugs - they were everywhere - Armoured Ground Crickets eating the flowers of the quiver tree.




The Quiver Tree (although actually not a tree but a type of aloe) gets its name from the arrow bags the ancient San people made from the hollowed out tubular branches. It has a very attractive bark and yellow flowers/fruits. 




I spoke with the owner and apparently her father started creating the sculptures many years ago and the family has carried on the tradition – very inventive and artistic.  I would like to have given her something which could be incorporated in the next creation but didn’t have anything suitable.


The Giants’ Playground aspect gets its name from the millions of small squarish stones lying around which look like they’ve been built up like Lego bricks.


Although it was fun to see this quirky collection of art, I think I would have preferred to go to the "proper" forest and see Quiver Trees en masse.

Later on we stopped at a petrol station and were entertained by Mickey and Minnie, jolly hot in those costumes I should imagine.


Many times we crossed over the single track railway which runs into South Africa and Carlos told us if we were lucky we’d actually see a train but with only 1 passenger carriage.  There weren’t many freight cars either.


Nearing our destination we stopped at a roadside café and once again there was an amazing collection, this time of cars and automobile curios.







And a few other bits of flora and fauna.





We finally reached our Canyon Village as the sun was beginning to set and what an amazing scene.  The cabins are set in a round and reminded me of Wild West wagons in a circle.  


There are even a couple of donkeys and a cart to deliver the suitcases to the rooms.  



The view from our little verandah - just glorious.


We quickly organised ourselves and went to join a 1700 sundowner walk about 40m up to the top of the rocky outcrop, led by a lovely chap who’d recently arrived from Angola – not a great deal of local knowledge yet but a very good communicator who will go far in the hospitality industry – also our waiter at dinner.

A few sights on the way.  Fiscal Shrike


This cactus’s flowers open at sundown and it’s pollinated by flies - I didn't attempt to smell it but my guess is that it would smell pretty putrid.


Pretty yellow flower unidentified so far.



And has really nice fluffy seedpods.


Kudu horns (one twist per year of age until it reaches 5)


Beetle in Euphorbia bush which apparently squirts urine as a defence (the beetle not the bush!).


The first part of the climb was a bit dodgy on very smooth rock but then steps had been made and the view at the top was just fabulous.  The sun setting on the red rocks which were is so many different shapes and sizes.





There was also a stone bar complete with fridge so lovely cold G&Ts whilst the sun went down.



Ian being Ian of course new the route home having only walked it once.



A backward view on the walk home.